In San Francisco’s trendiest coffee spots, a new brew is creating buzz: coffee made without a single coffee bean. This innovative offering comes from Atomo, a Seattle-based startup at the forefront of the beanless coffee movement.
Andy Kleitsch, CEO of Atomo, insists their product is not merely a coffee alternative. “We take great offense when someone says we’re a coffee substitute,” he declares. Unlike traditional coffee substitutes that often fall short on flavor and caffeine, Atomo strives to deliver a full coffee experience, from taste to caffeine content.
The environmental impact of coffee cultivation is a growing concern. Coffee farming is the sixth-largest driver of deforestation worldwide, and increased coffee consumption, particularly in traditionally tea-drinking countries like India and China, along with climate-induced shifts in farming practices, exacerbate this issue. Proponents of beanless coffee argue that it offers a more sustainable alternative, potentially reducing the ecological footprint of coffee production. With coffee prices at record highs and new EU regulations targeting deforestation, beanless coffee might also prove to be a more affordable option.
Chahan Yeretzian, a professor at the Coffee Excellence Centre in Zurich, acknowledges the promise of beanless coffee in addressing deforestation but remains cautious about its overall impact. He points out that coffee farming supports many smallholder farmers, who might turn to equally problematic crops if coffee production declines.
Since its launch in 2019, Atomo has expanded to over 70 coffee shops across the US and recently introduced a blend of beanless and traditional coffee for home brewing. Although it is priced higher than premium conventional coffee, Atomo is gaining popularity. The beanless blend includes ingredients like date seeds, ramón seeds, and sunflower seed extract, with caffeine derived from green tea and synthetic sources.
Dutch startup Northern Wonder, founded in 2021, is also making waves with its beanless coffee, incorporating ingredients such as lupin, chickpea, and malted barley. The company is still fine-tuning its recipe and experimenting with new natural flavorings. Other companies in the field include Singapore-based Prefer and San Francisco's Minus. The concept of lab-grown coffee is also being explored, with Finnish researchers and companies like Foodbrewer, California Cultured, and Another working on cell-based coffee. However, these ventures face regulatory and scalability challenges.
While beanless coffee has yet to fully capture the aroma and emotional connection of traditional coffee, it is sparking important discussions about sustainability and the future of coffee. Though it may not replace conventional coffee entirely, the rise of beanless options encourages consumers to reevaluate the environmental and ethical implications of their coffee choices.